
As we took pictures in front of the Red Pyramid, Rania decided to readdress the taxi issue. Nancy felt that the waiting fee was reasonable. I agreed, but said the drivers should give us some kind of discount for the time they spent getting lost. Rania wanted the waiting fee and the lost time wiped off the meter, and since she was the only one among us who spoke fluent Arabic, I told her she had my full support to, “Make a fuss.”
We foreigners stood back and conversed while Rania went to talk to the drivers, but our conversation was soon interrupted by the sound of shouting in Arabic. Rania was letting the driver who drove Maggie and me have it with both barrels while the other driver seemed to be trying to calm the situation. We came over to see if we could help, but Rania was storming over to the nice driver’s car and ordering “Maggie, you and Jamie are riding with us!”
At this point the argument had attracted a crowd including Ustez Muhammad, two uniformed tourist police and one plainclothes officer. Maggie asked had happened and Rania told us that the rude driver said that Maggie and I should have been more polite to him. At first I thought he was offended that I fell asleep on the way to Dahshur, but apparently at some point Maggie had put her head on my shoulder or held my hand and offended the driver’s delicate conservative sensibilities. He was also demanding that we pay him for the return trip to Zamalek even if we didn’t ride with him.
Ultimately Maggie and I found ourselves in Ustez Muhammad’s car, followed by Rania, Nancy and Allison in the good taxi and the offended driver alone in his taxi on the way to the tourist police station. Rania asked me to come into the station with her to lend credibility to her argument. Maggie followed as well, mainly because she just didn’t want to stand in the sun outside while we plead our case in front of the local law enforcement.
By the time Rania, Ustez Muhammad, the plainclothes officer and the offended driver had filed into the captain’s cozy office, there was only enough room for me to stand in the doorway, arms crossed and wearing a stern gaze. The captain was typical for a high-ranking officer in Egypt, overweight but authoritative, parked in the most comfortable chair in the room. He kept a passive demeanor as Rania and the driver plead their respective cases.
When they finished, the driver stormed out of the office, and the people in the office invited me to come sit by the captain. Maggie came inside and sat next to Rania, who took my phone to call City Cab and speak with customer service. Ustez Muhammad and the plainclothes officer started passing around cigarettes, which I accepted if for no other reason than to identify myself with the gang. I was too hot and thirsty to actually want to smoke.
While Rania shouted into the phone, the captain and I discussed the difference in prices for American luxury automobiles between the States and Egypt. Finally Rania handed the phone to the captain, and I looked for a way to discretely dispose of my cigarette. Once the captain finished on the phone, Rania told us we would have to give the offended driver 100 LE ($18.19).
After thanking the authorities, we all packed into the good driver’s car and took off for Lucille’s, my favorite restaurant in Maadi. On the way, Rania told us that City Cab had assured us that the rude driver would be losing his job, which wasn’t what we wanted to see, but he probably doesn’t need to be working with a foreign clientele anymore. If you spend enough time in Egypt, you’ll hear plenty of foreigners say that these people are all in league to cheat tourists at every turn, but I can say in this instance that they did the right thing.
Oh, and I saw this in Maadi and feel it needs to be shared with the world:
